Milbon staff member, Ichiro Konoike ( Inventor of Japanese Straightening and President of Milbon), Genoveva, Ichiro's Son, Peter

Milbon Grand opening party! Peter Louis Salon Staff and the President of Milbon.

The New Liscio Research and Development

I was Pleasantly surprised to be asked to help with Milbon's New Liscio product development. I felt this would be a Fantastic opportunity to be an active participant in the creation of a new and more versatile Japanese Straightening aka Thermal reconditioning procedure. During the R&D period we received several shipments of solutions from Osaka, Japan which would be adjusted and modified as per the suggestions of the stylists involved in this R&D Project. I would like to thank the various clients who agreed to be part of the R&D Project and the Milbon R&D team, who would come visit, bring us gifts and ask our opinions. I was impressed with their interest and dedication to creating a better product for us. As of April 1, 2005 we have been using the New Liscio in special cases ie. Quick straightening, curl reduction and mini straightening and we continue to use the Classic Liscio Products.

Milbon "Beautiful Hair Creates Beautiful People"

In 2004 Milbon opened Their New York City Office. The space is very beautiful and the grand opening party was Amazing, my whole staff had a great time. Everyone who is involved in the Japanese Straightening Industry was there, including Ichiro Konoike, the man who invented Japanese straightening President of Milbon and his son who is running the NYC office. It was nice to see them again, I had not seen them since they visited my salon 3 years ago.

Thank you Milbon

Japanese Straightening

JAPANESE HAIR STRAIGHTENING HISTORY

The first question that is asked when the clients hear about Japanese Hair Straightening aka Thermal Reconditioning ( which is like saying Champagne aka sparkling wine ) is "Why do the Japanese need a relaxer? They already have straight hair!" Contrary to popular belief, a high percentage of the Japanese population has wavy or kinky curl to their hair.

LISCIO "The First Japanese Straightening System"

To respond to the desire of clients to have straight hair, Milbon introduced Liscio in Japan on 1996. Unlike existing relaxers with active ingredients based on Hydroxide and lye, thio-based Liscio is more gentle for the hair thereby straightening the hair while leaving it in wonderful condition. Milbon was the first manufacturer to receive Japanese governmental approval for its unique thermal reconditioning system. Liscio contains a specially formulated solution and iron, which protects and repairs hair from heat damage.

In 1998 Shinbi International brought Liscio to the US and has developed the product and procedure even further to enable the process to be performed on just about any client that walks through the salon door. With added protein treatments and supporting products for the thermal reconditioning procedure, it is not uncommon to hear clients proclaim that their hair condition actually has improved after the procedure. We at the Peter Louis Salon are confident that our line of products and unique techniques will meet your desire to have beautiful straight hair.

Will my hair be healthier if I cover my highlights with Color?

No, do not cover your highlights with color before Japanese Straightening. It will not make your hair healthier and it will make it almost impossible to protect those highlighted strands.

Can I get Thermal Reconditioning if I have highlights?

Highlights are very tricky to work with, but can be done. Many salons highlight hair with bleach and sometimes they overlap their prior work on retouch. This is very damaging to the hair and makes the Japanese Straightening treatment difficult; because some hair is lightened right next to hair that is not lightened, creating a great degree of difference between the porosity of neighboring hair strands. So the highlighted hair will process faster than the virgin strand next to it. In order not to over process the light hair, we protect it with protection cream, but it is impossible to avoid getting the protection cream on the virgin hair. When this type of hair is rinsed out the virgin hair may not be completely processed. Therefore you many still need to blowdry highlighted hair after it's been Japanese straightened. By following our color advice after each retouch, we can perfect your hair over time. A prior consultation with your stylist is necessary to determine if Thermal Reconditioning will be a good choice for those with highlighted hair.

I have color in my hair, Can I still do Japanese Straightening?

Yes, you can do Japanese Straightening if you have Permanent or semi-permanent hair color, as long as they were applied properly.

When I get the new growth retouched, do they do all the hair again?

During a retouch procedure only the new growth is treated. The other hair is usually
protected by using high protection cream so the solution will not penetrate
into the previously treated hair. If there is any curl or wave in the
previously treated hair, a mild solution can be applied.

The retouch procedure is often more difficult to perform, so it is strongly recommended that you use a stylist very experienced in Japanese Straightening.

How long will the Japanese Straightening treatment last?

The Hair that gets treated will remain straight. The new growth that
appears in the months following the treatment will need to
be Thermally Reconditioned again. The new growth usually
needs to be treated about four to twelve
months after the initial treatment depending on curl and length.

A Partial Thermal Reconditioning Treatment can be done on the hairline in front of the ears. This will make it possible to go longer between full treatments because the rootsare less noticeable underneath.

The Post Thermal Reconditioning Rules

After Receiving a Japanese Straightening you must follow these rules for three days:

Don't wash your hair for three days (eg. process on saturday wash on tuesday morning).
Don't get your hair wet, if it does get wet dry it straight.
If you sweat, dry it straight.
No pins.
No clips.
No ponytails.
No hair placed behind the ears.

After the third day:
Use TR Safe Shampoo (eg. Crede ER FT or Peter Louis TR shampoo and conditioner or Yuko Kokoro G Shampoo and treament....)

If you go swimming protect your hair with a protection oil like phytoplage Sun protection oil or Peter Louis conditioner.

Are the old type of relaxers and straighteners damaging?

Yes, they can be because most relaxers/straighteners contain corrosive ingredients such as Sodium Hydroxide, Potassium Hydroxide, Lithium Hydroxide, Calcium Hydroxide etc. These ingredients corrode the hair. They change the strand from a cylindrical shape to flat shape. These products can leave the hair feeling like straw and the curl often comes back after a short period of time.

Japanese Straightening solutions contain ammonium Thioglycolate and are compatible with other relaxers that contain that ingredient. A properly completed Japanese Straightening changes the cells within the hair to the straight position and should not change the shape or integrity of the hair strand.

RELAXERS Within types, listed in order of overall

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

OVER-THE-COUNTER PRODUCTS


*Bone Strait No-lye Relaxer

Requires addition of a moisturizer to the relaxer before application.

Active ingredients: lithium hydroxides.

OVERALL SCORE: VG
DAMAGE: VG
FEEL: VG
STRAIGHTNESS: 5+
pH: 12.8


*Revlon Realistic Extra Conditioning Creme Relaxer System

Active ingredient: sodium hydroxide (lye-based formula).

OVERALL SCORE: VG
DAMAGE: G
FEEL: E
STRAIGHTNESS: 5+
pH: 13.2


*Gentle Treatment No-lye Conditioning Creme Relaxer

Active ingredients: lithium hydroxide; guanidine carbonate and calcium hydroxide.

OVERALL SCORE: VG
DAMAGE: F
FEEL: E
STRAIGHTNESS: 5+
pH: 13.0

*Soft & Beautiful No-lye Conditioning Relaxer

Requires application of a protector base becofe relaxing. Recommended to leave on hair for 12-15 min.

Active ingredients: guanidine carbonate and calcium hydroxide.

OVERALL SCORE: VG
DAMAGE: F
FEEL: E
STRAIGHTNESS: 5+
pH: 13.1


*Curl-Free Natural Curl Relaxer

Marketed to African-Americans and Caucasians. Recommended to leave on hair 50 min.

Active ingredient: ammonium bisulfite.

OVERALL SCORE: G
DAMAGE: VG
FEEL: G
STRAIGHTNESS: 3+
pH: 7.6


*Dark & Lovely No-lye Conditioning Relaxer System

Requires application of a protector base before relaxing.

Active ingredients: guanidine carbonate and calcium hydroxide.

OVERALL SCORE: G
DAMAGE: G
FEEL: VG
STRAIGHTNESS: 5+
pH: 13.0


*Creme of Nature No-lye Creme Relaxer System

Active ingredients: guanidine carbonate and calcium hydroxide.

OVERALL SCORE: G
DAMAGE: P
FEEL: E
STRAIGHTNESS: 5+
pH: 13.1


*African Pride Miracle Deep Conditioning No-lye Relaxer System
Active ingredients: guanidine carbonate and calcium hydroxide.
OVERALL SCORE: G
DAMAGE: P
FEEL: E
STRAIGHTNESS: 5+
pH: 13.3


*Alternatives No-lye Relaxer System

Active ingredients: guanidine carbonate and calcium hydroxide.

OVERALL SCORE: G
DAMAGE: P
FEEL: E
STRAIGHTNESS: 5+
pH: 13.3


*Optimum Care No-lye Relaxer

Active ingredients: guanidine carbonate and calcium hydroxide.

OVERALL SCORE: G
DAMAGE: P
FEEL: E
STRAIGHTNESS: 5+
pH: 13.2


PROFESSIONAL PRODUCTS

*Rusk Radical Anticurl Original Formula 1 Marketed to African-Americans and Caucasians. Recommended to leave on hair 7-20 min.

Active ingredient: ammonium thioglycolate.

OVERALL SCORE: G
DAMAGE: VG
FEEL: G
STRAIGHTNESS: 3+
pH: 9.1


*Revlon Realistic Creme Relaxer System
Active ingredient: sodium hydroxide (lye-based formula).

OVERALL SCORE: G
DAMAGE: P
FEEL: E
STRAIGHTNESS: 5+
pH: 13.3


For Relaxer, the OVERALL SCORE is based on the potential for hair damage, feel, and straightness. Hair DAMAGE is measured by comparing, before and after treatment, the decrease in strength when relaxed hair fibers are alongated to 115% of their initial length. In addition to FEEL, our panelists and consulting beautician judged the STRAIGHTNESS of hair that was treated with a product for the maxiimum recommended application time. The more plus signs (+++++) or (5+), the straighter the treated hair.


MOST TESTED RELAXERS:
*Specify that they should be used on normal hair for no longer than 15 to 20 minutes.
*Give directions for untreated hair and for retouching previously relaxed hair.
*Provide petroleum jelly to product the hairline.
*Have a consistency somewhat like cold cream.
*Have a long list of precautions.


E: Excellent
VG: Very Good
G: Good
F: Fair
P: Poor


CONSUMER REPORTS September 1999

I Have Henna in my hair can I get Japanese Straightening?

Yes

What is Thermal Reconditioning?

Thermal Reconditioning AKA Japanese Straightening is an innovative technique from Japan to make frizzy, curly or wavy hair straight while
preserving the hair's integrity. Thermal Reconditioning when done properly will improve the hair's texture, softness and shine.
Creating a new manageable Style!

The treatment Steps Are:


Assessing the client's hair condition ( porosity and elasticity ).
Washing the hair with a clarifying shampoo.
Applying protein to the hair (done by several sprays or running a solution through the hair).
Applying the TR solution (this is to break the hair's "Cystine Bonds" - the bonds that hold the curl or wave pattern).
Testing to see when the bonds are ready.
Rinsing the hair.
Applying protein to the hair (done by several sprays or running a solution through the hair).
Rinsing the hair.
Returning to the chair and applying a protective protein solution (by spray).
Eliminating some excess moisture in the hair (blow-drying to a certain point).
Ironing the hair in extremely small sections with a special Thermal Iron
reaching temperatures of 180 degrees Celsius (356 degrees F).
This will not damage your hair.
Applying a neutralizer to the hair after ironing is completed.
Applying protein and shine solution to the hair (done by several sprays or running a solution through the hair).
Rinsing the hair and conditioning.
Drying the hair.

Do I need a strand test?

No, Anyone can make a hair strand look great. The difficult part is to make the whole head look great! A true master of Japanese Straightening will know if your hair will look great without a strand test.

Peter, What do you think of this article?

Thank you for sending me this Article I will place my comments after each paragraph like so {{{Peter's Comments}}}
Intelligencer From the June 7, 2004 issue of New York Magazine
Straight to Hell
Why top stylists are ditching last year's hot hair-straightening treatment.
{{{Because they can't do it}}}
{{{so they hire Public Relations People to push curly hair.}}}
{{{This article is from 2004, very few clients asked me for big hair last year}}}
By Deborah Schoeneman


(Photo credit: Ruth Marten)
Much to the distress of women who not long ago had their tresses ironed flat with a Japanese straightening treatment, curly hair is in. The latest slew of trendy salons donÂ’t even offer the treatment (which costs from $200 to $700), not only because big hair is back but because stylists have seen the process wreak havoc on clients locks.
{{{We are twice as busy with Japanese Straightening this year than last year!!!}}}
{{{"big hair is back" Right, tell that to my clients!}}}
{{{This writer does not know the meaning of frizzy hair}}}
{{{We do Japanese curl reduction, too!}}}
{{{Does anyone really want hairdos from the eighties?}}}

Ted Gibson, who opened a Flatiron salon in December, bought the straightening chemical a blend of thioglycolate compound and other solutions but hasn't used it. Other celebrity hairdressers who've opened salons in the past year or so Mark Garrison, Eva Scrivo, Charles Worthington, Ric Pipino have also chosen not to offer the treatment. Garrison says clients who underwent it more than twice had disastrous results, especially if they had highlighted hair: In some cases, the hair was melted off. They were left with fried-out stubs.
{{{You can get "fried-out stubs" from a bad highlighting job too!!!}}}
{{{I can't believe a stylist who doesn't know how to do something would comment?}}}
{{{I bought a piano recently and I haven't used it either!}}}

The procedure sometimes called thermal reconditioning or ionic retexturing weakens the hair, breaking down each follicle's cystine bond (the molecular arrangement that gives hair its shape) so that it's vulnerable to restructuring; the hair is then flattened with a special ceramic iron, after which a neutralizing serum is added to keep it straight.
{{{"follicle's cystine bond"hmmmm what kind of research did this writer do?}}}
{{{The Follicle is in the scalp, we don't touch the scalp with TR solution.}}}
{{{We rearrange the cystine bonds in each hair strand}}}
{{{We polish the hair with a flat iron making the hair silkier and softer}}}
{{{The neutralizer is not what keeps the hair straight}}}

It's a precise and difficult process, and if a stylist is inexperienced or a less gentle metal iron is used, the effect is dried-out and damaged-looking. (Fred Pirkey of midtown's Salon Ishi suggests intense conditioning treatments with steam to salvage damaged hair.) And whether it's done properly or not, the resulting look is there to stay. Your hair gets stuck in one particular style, Pipino tells his clients. "I keep explaining, once you do it, thats it!"
{{{"a less gentle metal iron" ???what???}}}
{{{Steam doesn't salvage damaged hair.}}}
{{{An intense Protein treatment every 2 months does}}}
{{{"Your hair gets stuck in one particular style,"WRONG!}}}
{{{If done properly, You can use a GHD iron and create beautiful waves}}}

From the June 7, 2004 issue of New York Magazine