Saturday, May 21, 2005

Are the old type of relaxers and straighteners damaging?

Yes, they can be because most relaxers/straighteners contain corrosive ingredients such as Sodium Hydroxide, Potassium Hydroxide, Lithium Hydroxide, Calcium Hydroxide etc. These ingredients corrode the hair. They change the strand from a cylindrical shape to flat shape. These products can leave the hair feeling like straw and the curl often comes back after a short period of time.

Japanese Straightening solutions contain ammonium Thioglycolate and are compatible with other relaxers that contain that ingredient. A properly completed Japanese Straightening changes the cells within the hair to the straight position and should not change the shape or integrity of the hair strand.

RELAXERS Within types, listed in order of overall

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OVER-THE-COUNTER PRODUCTS


*Bone Strait No-lye Relaxer

Requires addition of a moisturizer to the relaxer before application.

Active ingredients: lithium hydroxides.

OVERALL SCORE: VG
DAMAGE: VG
FEEL: VG
STRAIGHTNESS: 5+
pH: 12.8


*Revlon Realistic Extra Conditioning Creme Relaxer System

Active ingredient: sodium hydroxide (lye-based formula).

OVERALL SCORE: VG
DAMAGE: G
FEEL: E
STRAIGHTNESS: 5+
pH: 13.2


*Gentle Treatment No-lye Conditioning Creme Relaxer

Active ingredients: lithium hydroxide; guanidine carbonate and calcium hydroxide.

OVERALL SCORE: VG
DAMAGE: F
FEEL: E
STRAIGHTNESS: 5+
pH: 13.0

*Soft & Beautiful No-lye Conditioning Relaxer

Requires application of a protector base becofe relaxing. Recommended to leave on hair for 12-15 min.

Active ingredients: guanidine carbonate and calcium hydroxide.

OVERALL SCORE: VG
DAMAGE: F
FEEL: E
STRAIGHTNESS: 5+
pH: 13.1


*Curl-Free Natural Curl Relaxer

Marketed to African-Americans and Caucasians. Recommended to leave on hair 50 min.

Active ingredient: ammonium bisulfite.

OVERALL SCORE: G
DAMAGE: VG
FEEL: G
STRAIGHTNESS: 3+
pH: 7.6


*Dark & Lovely No-lye Conditioning Relaxer System

Requires application of a protector base before relaxing.

Active ingredients: guanidine carbonate and calcium hydroxide.

OVERALL SCORE: G
DAMAGE: G
FEEL: VG
STRAIGHTNESS: 5+
pH: 13.0


*Creme of Nature No-lye Creme Relaxer System

Active ingredients: guanidine carbonate and calcium hydroxide.

OVERALL SCORE: G
DAMAGE: P
FEEL: E
STRAIGHTNESS: 5+
pH: 13.1


*African Pride Miracle Deep Conditioning No-lye Relaxer System
Active ingredients: guanidine carbonate and calcium hydroxide.
OVERALL SCORE: G
DAMAGE: P
FEEL: E
STRAIGHTNESS: 5+
pH: 13.3


*Alternatives No-lye Relaxer System

Active ingredients: guanidine carbonate and calcium hydroxide.

OVERALL SCORE: G
DAMAGE: P
FEEL: E
STRAIGHTNESS: 5+
pH: 13.3


*Optimum Care No-lye Relaxer

Active ingredients: guanidine carbonate and calcium hydroxide.

OVERALL SCORE: G
DAMAGE: P
FEEL: E
STRAIGHTNESS: 5+
pH: 13.2


PROFESSIONAL PRODUCTS

*Rusk Radical Anticurl Original Formula 1 Marketed to African-Americans and Caucasians. Recommended to leave on hair 7-20 min.

Active ingredient: ammonium thioglycolate.

OVERALL SCORE: G
DAMAGE: VG
FEEL: G
STRAIGHTNESS: 3+
pH: 9.1


*Revlon Realistic Creme Relaxer System
Active ingredient: sodium hydroxide (lye-based formula).

OVERALL SCORE: G
DAMAGE: P
FEEL: E
STRAIGHTNESS: 5+
pH: 13.3


For Relaxer, the OVERALL SCORE is based on the potential for hair damage, feel, and straightness. Hair DAMAGE is measured by comparing, before and after treatment, the decrease in strength when relaxed hair fibers are alongated to 115% of their initial length. In addition to FEEL, our panelists and consulting beautician judged the STRAIGHTNESS of hair that was treated with a product for the maxiimum recommended application time. The more plus signs (+++++) or (5+), the straighter the treated hair.


MOST TESTED RELAXERS:
*Specify that they should be used on normal hair for no longer than 15 to 20 minutes.
*Give directions for untreated hair and for retouching previously relaxed hair.
*Provide petroleum jelly to product the hairline.
*Have a consistency somewhat like cold cream.
*Have a long list of precautions.


E: Excellent
VG: Very Good
G: Good
F: Fair
P: Poor


CONSUMER REPORTS September 1999