Can Peter Louis Train me to do Japanese Straightening?

Yes, Peter Louis is now training upscale salon owners in the art of Japanese Straightening. If you are a salon owner, licensed stylist and you are willing to carry the Peter Louis Haircare product line you may be eligible. The Training fee is $1000 plus a $1000 minimum purchase. If you are interest feel free to email me.

Mini Japanese Straightening

The term "Mini Japanese Straightening" was created by me Peter Louis. Its definition has been marred by many stylist who make up meanings to terms they hear, to suit there needs. The term Mini Japanese Straightening refers to our quick Japanese Straightening(which is what most salons in NYC claim do be an actual Japanese Straightening aka TR Service). What another salon will charge you $100 an hour for, we can do better, faster and for less money. Our Mini Japanese Straightening starts at $300. If you want a more meticulous service we charge $500 and up , for example if your full TR service charge is $600 the Mini would be $400. If you want an exact price, call us for a consultation 212-319-0019.

Shiseido Crystallizing

Today the Shiseido company demonstrated the Crystallizing straight service for us. They were very nice and I thank them for the demonstration. The shampoo and conditioner products are interesting but I don't like the Crystallizing straight service. The solution has a smell that I have never liked (actually I hate the smell), This smell reminds me of a Paul Brown TR product and other relaxers that I have disliked one of which was Canadian . Two weeks ago I retouched a woman who had Crystallizing and when Liscio is slightly overlapped over crystalling the smell is reactivated. As far as the straightening demonstration, the models were Japanese women with wavy hair, I expected that the stylist would get the hair extra silky and smooth like we do with the Liscio product, but it wasn't the same. I believe Milbon's Liscio products are the most versatile and advanced products on the market. On a side note I just discovered the origins of Crystallizing this post is linked to Zotos International the company Shiseido purchased in 1988 which entered them into U.S. professional beauty salon market and on New Years Eve 2001, Shiseido Co., Ltd., acquired Joico Laboratories, Inc. . I guess that is why I remember this smell.

Excuse Me :-)

I love posting to my blogs but I am so busy actually doing straightenings, that I never have time to post. If you have any questions you would like answered here send me an email, I will answer them when I get a chance. If you need a quick answer call us 212-319-0019.
Thank you!

Matrix Opti smooth

MATRIX, is part of L'Oreal USA's Professional Products Division.

According to the Matrix website:
Technology makes the difference it's cold-smoothing or heat-straightening, Opti.smooth's unique formulations protect your hair every step of the way.

In Actuality it is the hair stylist who must protect your hair every step of the way! cold-smoothing means relaxing and thats what this product is a relaxer with some conditioning properties. A product that wants to be like the new Liscio product but not as good in my opinion.

We can provide the Matrix opti smooth service. The product actually costs me the salon owner less to buy than the Liscio product, but I like to use the best products on my clients.

If you do want a Matrix opti smooth service ask us; but remember it is just a relaxer don't be fooled by all the marketing and PR spin that Loreal is creating.

This is another funny tidbit from the Matrix website:
Q: Will this service damage my hair?
A: Opti.smooth's patented ceramide technology and auto-stop action protect hair through every step. Conditioning agents leave it soft and smooth. Just maintain your hair at home with the Sleek.look Smoothing System, and you'll be amazed at the condition and shine.

In Actuality any service from highlights to relaxing can damage your hair, as many of you know it is up to your hair stylist to use the products wisely. And if your hair is soft and smooth after the service why would you have to buy an additional product to smooth it out?

Finally notice the dry frizzy ends on the Opti smooth model, this is the same picture from the Matrix website and on the website of many other salons.

NY1 News Article and video from May 6, 2002

This link contains the News Report featured on NY1:
http://www.ny1.com/ny1/content/index.jsp?&aid=21250&search_result=1&stid=20

NY1 News Article and Video from April, 1 2002

This link contains the News Report featured on NY1:
http://www.ny1.com/ny1/content/index.jsp?&aid=20295&search_result=1&stid=20

Hi Peter,I recently emailed you about TR and asked you if Rusk Relaxer would work nearly as well. Which would you recommend and why? I'm ready to get one of the processes done as the weather is beginning to wreak havoc on my hair already!I look forward to hearing from you soon .Thank you,Jackie

Hi Jackie, The Rusk Relaxer does not get the hair as smooth and silky as we can using the Liscio TR product. Even a quick/mini TR is better. Regular relaxers usually don't last long and just damage the hair. We do the Quick TR using the new Liscio which we helped develop and we take bigger sections when ironing. So the result is better than a relaxer not as smooth or silky as the full TR. It takes less time to do and we charge less. For example: a woman walked in last week; she had the full TR done somewhere else last year it took them 10hrs to do it( 2 people ironing) ( she had alot of hair, probably 3 times the average. She paid 900). She asked for something Faster and not as straight. I did in 4hrs myself with no help I charged $500 if it takes less time I charge less. I also use the new product for clients who want less curl.
If you ever have any questions that need urgent attention it is always best to call us 212-319-0019. We are usually very busy at the salon and it is difficult to answer all the emails that come in. Thank you, Peter

Milbon staff member, Ichiro Konoike ( Inventor of Japanese Straightening and President of Milbon), Genoveva, Ichiro's Son, Peter

Milbon Grand opening party! Peter Louis Salon Staff and the President of Milbon.

The New Liscio Research and Development

I was Pleasantly surprised to be asked to help with Milbon's New Liscio product development. I felt this would be a Fantastic opportunity to be an active participant in the creation of a new and more versatile Japanese Straightening aka Thermal reconditioning procedure. During the R&D period we received several shipments of solutions from Osaka, Japan which would be adjusted and modified as per the suggestions of the stylists involved in this R&D Project. I would like to thank the various clients who agreed to be part of the R&D Project and the Milbon R&D team, who would come visit, bring us gifts and ask our opinions. I was impressed with their interest and dedication to creating a better product for us. As of April 1, 2005 we have been using the New Liscio in special cases ie. Quick straightening, curl reduction and mini straightening and we continue to use the Classic Liscio Products.

Milbon "Beautiful Hair Creates Beautiful People"

In 2004 Milbon opened Their New York City Office. The space is very beautiful and the grand opening party was Amazing, my whole staff had a great time. Everyone who is involved in the Japanese Straightening Industry was there, including Ichiro Konoike, the man who invented Japanese straightening President of Milbon and his son who is running the NYC office. It was nice to see them again, I had not seen them since they visited my salon 3 years ago.

Thank you Milbon

Japanese Straightening

JAPANESE HAIR STRAIGHTENING HISTORY

The first question that is asked when the clients hear about Japanese Hair Straightening aka Thermal Reconditioning ( which is like saying Champagne aka sparkling wine ) is "Why do the Japanese need a relaxer? They already have straight hair!" Contrary to popular belief, a high percentage of the Japanese population has wavy or kinky curl to their hair.

LISCIO "The First Japanese Straightening System"

To respond to the desire of clients to have straight hair, Milbon introduced Liscio in Japan on 1996. Unlike existing relaxers with active ingredients based on Hydroxide and lye, thio-based Liscio is more gentle for the hair thereby straightening the hair while leaving it in wonderful condition. Milbon was the first manufacturer to receive Japanese governmental approval for its unique thermal reconditioning system. Liscio contains a specially formulated solution and iron, which protects and repairs hair from heat damage.

In 1998 Shinbi International brought Liscio to the US and has developed the product and procedure even further to enable the process to be performed on just about any client that walks through the salon door. With added protein treatments and supporting products for the thermal reconditioning procedure, it is not uncommon to hear clients proclaim that their hair condition actually has improved after the procedure. We at the Peter Louis Salon are confident that our line of products and unique techniques will meet your desire to have beautiful straight hair.

Will my hair be healthier if I cover my highlights with Color?

No, do not cover your highlights with color before Japanese Straightening. It will not make your hair healthier and it will make it almost impossible to protect those highlighted strands.

Can I get Thermal Reconditioning if I have highlights?

Highlights are very tricky to work with, but can be done. Many salons highlight hair with bleach and sometimes they overlap their prior work on retouch. This is very damaging to the hair and makes the Japanese Straightening treatment difficult; because some hair is lightened right next to hair that is not lightened, creating a great degree of difference between the porosity of neighboring hair strands. So the highlighted hair will process faster than the virgin strand next to it. In order not to over process the light hair, we protect it with protection cream, but it is impossible to avoid getting the protection cream on the virgin hair. When this type of hair is rinsed out the virgin hair may not be completely processed. Therefore you many still need to blowdry highlighted hair after it's been Japanese straightened. By following our color advice after each retouch, we can perfect your hair over time. A prior consultation with your stylist is necessary to determine if Thermal Reconditioning will be a good choice for those with highlighted hair.

I have color in my hair, Can I still do Japanese Straightening?

Yes, you can do Japanese Straightening if you have Permanent or semi-permanent hair color, as long as they were applied properly.

When I get the new growth retouched, do they do all the hair again?

During a retouch procedure only the new growth is treated. The other hair is usually
protected by using high protection cream so the solution will not penetrate
into the previously treated hair. If there is any curl or wave in the
previously treated hair, a mild solution can be applied.

The retouch procedure is often more difficult to perform, so it is strongly recommended that you use a stylist very experienced in Japanese Straightening.

How long will the Japanese Straightening treatment last?

The Hair that gets treated will remain straight. The new growth that
appears in the months following the treatment will need to
be Thermally Reconditioned again. The new growth usually
needs to be treated about four to twelve
months after the initial treatment depending on curl and length.

A Partial Thermal Reconditioning Treatment can be done on the hairline in front of the ears. This will make it possible to go longer between full treatments because the rootsare less noticeable underneath.

The Post Thermal Reconditioning Rules

After Receiving a Japanese Straightening you must follow these rules for three days:

Don't wash your hair for three days (eg. process on saturday wash on tuesday morning).
Don't get your hair wet, if it does get wet dry it straight.
If you sweat, dry it straight.
No pins.
No clips.
No ponytails.
No hair placed behind the ears.

After the third day:
Use TR Safe Shampoo (eg. Crede ER FT or Peter Louis TR shampoo and conditioner or Yuko Kokoro G Shampoo and treament....)

If you go swimming protect your hair with a protection oil like phytoplage Sun protection oil or Peter Louis conditioner.

Are the old type of relaxers and straighteners damaging?

Yes, they can be because most relaxers/straighteners contain corrosive ingredients such as Sodium Hydroxide, Potassium Hydroxide, Lithium Hydroxide, Calcium Hydroxide etc. These ingredients corrode the hair. They change the strand from a cylindrical shape to flat shape. These products can leave the hair feeling like straw and the curl often comes back after a short period of time.

Japanese Straightening solutions contain ammonium Thioglycolate and are compatible with other relaxers that contain that ingredient. A properly completed Japanese Straightening changes the cells within the hair to the straight position and should not change the shape or integrity of the hair strand.

RELAXERS Within types, listed in order of overall

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

OVER-THE-COUNTER PRODUCTS


*Bone Strait No-lye Relaxer

Requires addition of a moisturizer to the relaxer before application.

Active ingredients: lithium hydroxides.

OVERALL SCORE: VG
DAMAGE: VG
FEEL: VG
STRAIGHTNESS: 5+
pH: 12.8


*Revlon Realistic Extra Conditioning Creme Relaxer System

Active ingredient: sodium hydroxide (lye-based formula).

OVERALL SCORE: VG
DAMAGE: G
FEEL: E
STRAIGHTNESS: 5+
pH: 13.2


*Gentle Treatment No-lye Conditioning Creme Relaxer

Active ingredients: lithium hydroxide; guanidine carbonate and calcium hydroxide.

OVERALL SCORE: VG
DAMAGE: F
FEEL: E
STRAIGHTNESS: 5+
pH: 13.0

*Soft & Beautiful No-lye Conditioning Relaxer

Requires application of a protector base becofe relaxing. Recommended to leave on hair for 12-15 min.

Active ingredients: guanidine carbonate and calcium hydroxide.

OVERALL SCORE: VG
DAMAGE: F
FEEL: E
STRAIGHTNESS: 5+
pH: 13.1


*Curl-Free Natural Curl Relaxer

Marketed to African-Americans and Caucasians. Recommended to leave on hair 50 min.

Active ingredient: ammonium bisulfite.

OVERALL SCORE: G
DAMAGE: VG
FEEL: G
STRAIGHTNESS: 3+
pH: 7.6


*Dark & Lovely No-lye Conditioning Relaxer System

Requires application of a protector base before relaxing.

Active ingredients: guanidine carbonate and calcium hydroxide.

OVERALL SCORE: G
DAMAGE: G
FEEL: VG
STRAIGHTNESS: 5+
pH: 13.0


*Creme of Nature No-lye Creme Relaxer System

Active ingredients: guanidine carbonate and calcium hydroxide.

OVERALL SCORE: G
DAMAGE: P
FEEL: E
STRAIGHTNESS: 5+
pH: 13.1


*African Pride Miracle Deep Conditioning No-lye Relaxer System
Active ingredients: guanidine carbonate and calcium hydroxide.
OVERALL SCORE: G
DAMAGE: P
FEEL: E
STRAIGHTNESS: 5+
pH: 13.3


*Alternatives No-lye Relaxer System

Active ingredients: guanidine carbonate and calcium hydroxide.

OVERALL SCORE: G
DAMAGE: P
FEEL: E
STRAIGHTNESS: 5+
pH: 13.3


*Optimum Care No-lye Relaxer

Active ingredients: guanidine carbonate and calcium hydroxide.

OVERALL SCORE: G
DAMAGE: P
FEEL: E
STRAIGHTNESS: 5+
pH: 13.2


PROFESSIONAL PRODUCTS

*Rusk Radical Anticurl Original Formula 1 Marketed to African-Americans and Caucasians. Recommended to leave on hair 7-20 min.

Active ingredient: ammonium thioglycolate.

OVERALL SCORE: G
DAMAGE: VG
FEEL: G
STRAIGHTNESS: 3+
pH: 9.1


*Revlon Realistic Creme Relaxer System
Active ingredient: sodium hydroxide (lye-based formula).

OVERALL SCORE: G
DAMAGE: P
FEEL: E
STRAIGHTNESS: 5+
pH: 13.3


For Relaxer, the OVERALL SCORE is based on the potential for hair damage, feel, and straightness. Hair DAMAGE is measured by comparing, before and after treatment, the decrease in strength when relaxed hair fibers are alongated to 115% of their initial length. In addition to FEEL, our panelists and consulting beautician judged the STRAIGHTNESS of hair that was treated with a product for the maxiimum recommended application time. The more plus signs (+++++) or (5+), the straighter the treated hair.


MOST TESTED RELAXERS:
*Specify that they should be used on normal hair for no longer than 15 to 20 minutes.
*Give directions for untreated hair and for retouching previously relaxed hair.
*Provide petroleum jelly to product the hairline.
*Have a consistency somewhat like cold cream.
*Have a long list of precautions.


E: Excellent
VG: Very Good
G: Good
F: Fair
P: Poor


CONSUMER REPORTS September 1999